
What you need, in order
- Cutting: sprue cutters snip parts off cleanly; a hobby knife trims the leftover nub and mold lines; a self-healing mat protects your table.
- Gluing: extra-thin plastic cement for most joins, plus a clear-parts or white glue for canopies and windows.
- Cleaning up: sanding sticks or sponges in a few grits, and a little putty to fill gaps.
- Handling: fine tweezers for small parts and decals.
- Painting: a spray primer, acrylic paints in the colors your kit calls for, and a small set of brushes.
- Finishing: decal setting solution, a panel line wash and weathering powders when you are ready.
Where to spend and where to save
The one tool worth buying good from the start is the sprue cutter: a sharp, flat-backed cutter saves more cleanup time than anything else. Paint and brushes can start cheap; inexpensive brushes are fine for base coats, and you can add a quality detail brush later. An airbrush is a big step up for camouflage and smooth finishes, but it is not needed for your first few kits.
For a full walkthrough of how each tool is used, read How to build your first model kit.
Safety basics
- Cut away from your fingers and replace knife blades often; a dull blade slips.
- Use spray primers and solvent-based products in a well-ventilated area, ideally outdoors.
- Keep cement, knives and paints away from young children and pets.
Quick answers
Can I use superglue instead of plastic cement?
Plastic cement is better for plastic parts because it fuses them together. Superglue is for metal, resin or photo-etch parts.
Acrylic or enamel paint?
Acrylics for beginners: low odor and water cleanup. Enamels are useful later for washes, because they can be wiped over acrylic without lifting it.
Do I need primer?
Strongly recommended. It helps paint stick, evens out the color and reveals flaws before you paint.




























