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M1 Abrams vs Leopard 1 and 2: Versions Explained and Model Kits
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The M1 Abrams and the Leopard 2 are the two best-known Western main battle tanks of the last forty years. They share a gun, they were developed at the same time, and they have both been upgraded so many times that the same name can describe tanks that look very different. This guide explains the history behind them and the older Leopard 1, shows you how to identify each version, and matches the kits in our catalog to the right tank.
Two tanks with a shared history
In the 1960s the United States and West Germany tried to develop a joint tank, the MBT-70. The project was cancelled, and each country went its own way. Germany developed the Leopard 2, which entered service in 1979. The United States developed the M1, named after General Creighton Abrams, which entered production in 1980.
The two tanks ended up with the same main armament. Later Abrams carry the M256, a 120 mm smoothbore gun built in the United States under license from the German company Rheinmetall, the same family of gun as on the Leopard 2. That makes them a natural pair for a modern armor shelf.
They also differ in important ways. The Abrams is powered by a gas turbine engine, which gives strong acceleration and a distinctive whine but uses a lot of fuel. The Leopard 2 uses a diesel engine. Both use advanced composite armor whose exact makeup is classified.
Abrams versions: M1, M1A1, M1A2, SEP and TUSK
| Version | Gun | How to spot it | Kits in our catalog |
|---|---|---|---|
| M1 (1980) | 105 mm rifled | Slimmer gun barrel than later versions | None listed in plastic |
| M1A1 (mid-1980s) | 120 mm smoothbore | Thicker, longer-looking barrel; no box sight on the turret roof | Tamiya 1/35 35158 (with mine plow) |
| M1A2 (1990s) | 120 mm smoothbore | Boxy commander's independent thermal viewer on the turret roof | Tamiya 1/35 35269, Tamiya 1/48 32592, Revell 1/72 03346 |
| M1A2 SEP | 120 mm smoothbore | Looks like an M1A2; the upgrades are mostly electronics and sights | See TUSK below |
| TUSK / TUSK II | 120 mm smoothbore | Reactive armor blocks on the skirts, gun shields at the hatches, slat armor at the rear | Tamiya 1/35 35326 |
M1 and M1A1
The original M1 had a 105 mm rifled gun. The M1A1 introduced the 120 mm smoothbore in the mid-1980s, and its thicker barrel is the clearest difference. The M1A1 was the main American tank of the 1991 Gulf War, and it is the version most people picture in desert tan.
Tamiya M1A1 Abrams with Mine Plow
Tamiya's 1/35 M1A1 with Mine Plow shows an Abrams fitted with a plow for clearing paths through minefields, as used in the 1991 Gulf War. The plow makes it look different from every other Abrams on the shelf, and it suits a desert scheme.
Check price on AmazonM1A2
The M1A2 added a commander's independent thermal viewer, an armored box-shaped sight on the turret roof in front of the loader's hatch. It lets the commander search for new targets while the gunner engages the current one. That box is the quickest way to tell an M1A2 from an M1A1. The M1A2 also brought new digital electronics inside the tank.
SEP and TUSK
The SEP (System Enhancement Package) upgrades improved the M1A2's computers, displays and thermal sights. From the outside, a SEP tank can be hard to tell from a basic M1A2, so the kit name is your best guide.
TUSK (Tank Urban Survival Kit) is far easier to see. It was developed for fighting in cities during the Iraq War. It adds reactive armor blocks along the side skirts, armored shields around the loader's and commander's machine guns, slat armor to protect the rear, and a telephone on the back so infantry can talk to the crew. TUSK II added a heavier set of reactive armor. A TUSK Abrams looks bulky and busy, which makes it a rewarding subject for detail painting.
Tamiya M1A2 SEP Abrams TUSK II
Tamiya's 1/35 M1A2 SEP TUSK II shows the Abrams in its urban combat fit, with the added armor and gun shields that make this version so recognizable. It has more surface detail to paint than a basic Abrams, so it suits a builder with a kit or two behind them.
Check price on AmazonTip: Desert tan Abrams look flat if you paint them one color. Spray or brush a slightly darker tan in the recesses first, then the main color, then lighten the upper surfaces. Finish with a light dust weathering rather than mud.
Leopard 1
The Leopard 1 was West Germany's first postwar main battle tank. It entered service in 1965 and carried the British-designed 105 mm L7 rifled gun. Its designers favored speed and mobility over heavy armor, believing that no practical armor could stop the new anti-tank weapons of the day. It was exported widely across NATO and beyond, which means you can paint one in many different armies' colors.
The easiest way to identify a Leopard 1 version is the turret:
- Cast turret (Leopard 1, 1A1, 1A2): a smooth, rounded turret. The 1A1 added a thermal sleeve on the gun barrel and rubber side skirts. Some cast turrets had extra armor plates bolted on.
- Welded turret (1A3 and 1A4): an angular, flat-sided turret with a wedge-shaped front. It looks completely different from the cast type.
Later upgrades, like the 1A5, were applied to existing tanks, mostly with cast turrets, and added modern fire control.
Tamiya Leopard 1
Tamiya's 1/35 Leopard 1 is a simple, approachable way to add the Cold War West German tank to a collection. Check the listing photos to see the turret and version shown, then choose markings to match. It pairs well with a Leopard 2 to show how German tank design changed.
Check price on AmazonRevell also makes a 1/35 Leopard 1 (03240). If you want both a cast and a welded turret, compare the two listings before you buy.
Leopard 2 versions
The Leopard 2 has been in service since 1979 and is used by many European armies and others around the world. Its versions are easy to tell apart once you know the three main looks.
| Version | How to spot it | Kits in our catalog |
|---|---|---|
| Leopard 2A4 | Turret front has flat, vertical faces, like a box | Nifeliz brick-built set |
| Leopard 2A5 | Wedge-shaped spaced armor added to the turret front | COBI block set labeled 2A5 TVM Prototype |
| Leopard 2A6 / 2A6M | The same wedge armor plus a noticeably longer L55 gun barrel | Tamiya 1/35 35271; Revell 1/35 03281, 03342; Revell 1/72 03180; Heng Long 1/16 RC |
| Leopard 2A7 and 2A8 | Wedge turret with more add-on armor and equipment | Brick-built sets from Boolakos, General Jim's, Honchoes and others |
The 2A4 was the most widely built early version and was exported to many countries. In the 1990s the 2A5 added the wedge-shaped armor on the turret front, which instantly changed the tank's look. The 2A6 kept the wedge and added the longer L55 gun. The 2A6M added extra protection against mines. Many armies have their own national versions, such as the Dutch 2A6NL that Revell includes in one of its kits. Leopard 2s, including 2A4s and 2A6s, were also supplied to Ukraine from 2023.
Tamiya Leopard 2 A6
Tamiya's 1/35 Leopard 2 A6 shows the wedge-armored turret and long L55 gun of the modern German tank. Tamiya's reputation for clean fit makes it a good first modern tank kit, and it is a natural partner for Tamiya's 1/35 M1A2 Abrams.
Check price on AmazonAbrams or Leopard 2 at a glance
- Turret shape: the Abrams turret is low and wide, with angled front faces and a long storage rack on the rear. The Leopard 2A4 turret has vertical faces; later Leopards have the sharp wedge.
- Rear deck: the Abrams has a large exhaust grille at the rear for its gas turbine.
- Gun: both have a 120 mm gun. A Leopard 2A6 or later has the longer barrel.
Paint schemes
- Abrams in Europe (from the mid-1980s): a NATO three-color camouflage of green, brown and black.
- Abrams in the Gulf War and Iraq: overall desert tan, often with heavy dust.
- Leopard 1, early German service: overall olive green.
- German Leopard 1 and 2 from the 1980s: the same NATO three-color pattern of green, brown and black.
- Export tanks: each army used its own colors and markings, so follow the kit decals or a photo of the tank you choose.
Common build pitfalls
- Mixing versions. A CITV box on an M1A1, or a long L55 gun on a 2A5, are common errors. Use the tables above.
- Wrong weathering. Modern tanks are maintained closely. Dust and light grime look more convincing than heavy rust.
- Ignoring add-on armor fit. TUSK blocks and Leopard skirts must sit in straight, even lines. Dry-fit them before gluing.
- Flat camouflage. Three-color NATO camouflage looks better with slightly soft edges at 1/35 and tighter edges at 1/72.
Block sets and RC tanks
Modern tanks are popular with block set makers. COBI makes M1A2 Abrams sets, including a Polish version, since Poland has bought Abrams tanks for its army. Sluban makes a TUSK II, and several brands make Leopard 2A4 to 2A8 sets, often with a lot of pieces. There is also a set of the Abrams X, a technology demonstrator shown in 2022 rather than a production tank. See our block set guide for brand differences.
The Abrams and the Leopard 2 are the most common RC tank subjects. A 1/16 Heng Long version is the hobby-grade choice, while 1/24 models with smoke and sound are better as gifts or for casual driving. Our RC tank guide explains the difference.
COBI M1A2 Abrams Tank
Sluban M1A2 Abrams TUSK II, 988 Pieces
Nifeliz Leopard 2A4 Tank
BESTYMXY Heng Long M1A2 Abrams
BESTYMXY Heng Long Leopard 2A6
Browse every modern and Cold War tank kit on the Tanks page, and see our scale guide if you are choosing between 1/35, 1/48 and 1/72.
Quick answers
Do the Abrams and Leopard 2 use the same gun?
They use the same family of 120 mm smoothbore gun. The Abrams version is built in the United States under license from Rheinmetall.
How do I tell an M1A1 from an M1A2?
Look for the box-shaped commander's thermal viewer on the turret roof, in front of the loader's hatch. The M1A2 has it; the M1A1 does not.
What does TUSK mean on an Abrams kit?
Tank Urban Survival Kit: add-on armor, gun shields and other equipment developed for urban combat in Iraq.
What is the difference between a Leopard 2A4 and a 2A6?
The 2A4 has a flat-faced turret. The 2A6 has wedge-shaped add-on armor on the turret front and a longer gun barrel.
Which modern tank kit is best for a beginner?
A basic Tamiya M1A2 or Leopard 2 A6 in 1/35, or the 1/48 M1A2 if you want a smaller build. Save the TUSK II for a later project.
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